Sometimes, we have a color correction challenge that sparks our creativity. And with an open mind, anything is possible! But the key to navigating any color correction is to conduct a detailed consultation before doing anything else. The client’s hair history, condition at the time of the consultation, test strand outcome, and desired results are all part of the plan. It’s also important to create open communication with your client about realistic results and expectations.
This tutorial will walk you through how to achieve an all-over rose gold color with copper undertones. You’ll also get a brief look into the shag haircut done for this client.
First, conduct a thorough consultation with the client to discuss their hair history. In this case, the past five years of hair history were discussed. The hair had been previously colored with box dye at home, as well as level one colored more than once and bleach bathed more than once. A strand was tested and the ends did not lift above a level eight, but had a strong gold tone and great integrity afterward. However, the client desired an all-over rose gold color with some deeper copper tones throughout, so the gold undertone was perfect to lift to.
Start out by lining the hairline with protective barrier cream. Section the hair into four quadrants. Using a scalp lightener of 25 volume, begin taking ½ inch partings and applying lightener midshaft to the ends, fully saturating the hair. Repeat this process on both back quadrants and move to the front two quadrants.
Once finished with midshaft to end application, go back and apply lightener of 20 volume at the roots following the same pattern, starting in the back and working your way to the front. I Cover the hair with a cap and process for 25 minutes, until reaching the desired lift level—in this case, eight.
Wash out the lightener with Verb Ghost shampoo but do not condition the hair. Towel dry, then apply a demi-color of Redken Shades EQ 09AA and Pastel Peach in equal parts with a Shades EQ processing solution at a 1:1 ratio from roots to ends, starting at the nape. For added dimension, place lowlights throughout the head using Redken Shades EQ 08C and 06CB in equal parts with a Shades EQ processing solution at a 1:1 ratio.
After the lowlights are foiled, do a root tap with an all-over formula of 09AA and Pastel Peach, placing foils randomly throughout the head across the back, sides, and top. Optional: Keep the front hairline out when placing lowlights for a brighter look around the face.
Be sure to saturate the hair in between foils that were left out and process for 20 minutes. Once processed, rinse the color thoroughly with lukewarm water and apply a deep conditioning treatment with a Verb conditioning mask. Let it sit for 10 minutes, then rinse out.
For the cut: A customized shag with curtain bangs.
- Start by trimming ends, beginning at the nape with a 0-degree angle with over-direction towards the face, creating a deep angle towards the back of the head. Continue adding hair from the back to connect the angle with the guide in the front.
- Starting with a pie section at the crown, comb the hair up at a 90-degree angle and cut the ends.
- Continue to follow that guide down the head, holding the parting at a 90-degree angle.
- Once you reach the occipital, cut the hair at a 35-degree angle, letting the ends drop out if they don’t follow the guide.
- Continue to the sides with pie sections and over-direct the hair towards the crown to keep the face framing out.
- Take the mohawk section and check the sides to make sure they are even. Then, pull the front fringe forward to create a guide.
- Continue with small partings on both sides, then bring to the front and cut any fringe that’s out of place from the guide.
- To blow dry and style, use a heat protectant cream and leave-in conditioner (in this case, Verb heat protectant followed by Mizani 25 Miracle Milk). Go in with a 1” curling iron starting in the back of the head, and take ½-inch sections alternating the direction of the curl and working your way up the head.
- For the front, curl hair away from the face and finish the style with Verb Ghost hairspray.
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