by Patrick Chai
With this look, I wanted to create a contrast between a clean-cut, precise finish on the sides and back and textured movement in the crown. I used freehand clipper work with a one-blade to create the low taper around the perimeter and scissors over comb to refine the surface texture on the bottom half of the head. Freehand fanning around the perimeter with the one-blade allowed me to really button up the finish. To achieve the desired contrast in the crown, I first point cut the silhouette length using shears, overdirecting the hair in the front two sections to force length. Then, I carved out shorter pieces in the secondary shape using a feather razor to create separation and lift while helping me achieve the unsystematic movement I wanted.
To emphasize the qualities of the cut, I used American Crew Defining Paste to style the sides and back. This offered a matte, medium hold and clean finish. On top, I applied American Crew Boost Powder to the roots to generate added volume and texture. I finally applied a light dose of American Crew Defining Paste using my fingers to control the ends of the hair on top.
AHP Indie Stylist is AHP's bimonthly publication, created to speak directly to you, the independent hair stylist and barber. In this issue:
► Shay's Secrets
Hairdresser Shay Dempsey shares from his expertise
► Ready for the Runway
Modern braided ponytail how-to
► Follow the Leaders
Pursuing influencer and mentor relationships
► Pinwheel Color
Up the shag trend with vivid color
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